travel tips

TAKE CASH WITH YOU
ATMs are a little difficult to locate within Marrakech’s ancient medina, and the ones that can be found (usually around Jemaa el-Fna, the main square) often don’t accept foreign cards. Many restaurants accept credit cards, but in the souks it’s imperative to pay with cash, mostly in the Moroccan currency (Dirham), but occasionally Euros are accepted. There are currency exchange offices in the city, but they may be too far to walk, therefore a taxi ride away. There’s a Bureau de Change in Marrakech’s Menara airport arrival hall so come armed with cash and change it for Dirham as soon as you land in the country. 

DRESS APPROPRIATELY
Morocco is a devoutly Muslim country, and being in the medina feels like stepping back into a long-forgotten time. From the call to prayer that echoes a loud chorus from towers throughout the ancient walled city five times a day, to the donkeys that plod dutifully through the dusty souk alleys carrying their master’s wares, every aspect of life seems picturesquely traditional. Due to the strictly observed religion in this section of the city, when you're in the medina it’s advisable to wear clothes that are more conservative: for guys that means t-shirts rather than tank tops, and for women it’s respectful to cover shoulders, and wear skirts or dresses that are at least knee length. It’s not that there would be consequences if you wear more revealing clothing (and let’s face it, in the Moroccan heat that’s tempting), but it’s always best to be sensitive to the culture you’re in.

*That said, when attending wedding events or while you are at the hotel, it is not necessary to abide by these dress codes. Tank tops! Short skirts! Bathing suits! Shoulders! Show 'em all! 

WEATHER
September sees temperatures dip slightly compared to previous months, but Marrakech is still hot. The average daily temperature during the month of September hovers around 27 degrees Celsius/ 80 degrees Fahrenheit. This includes a potential low of 19 degrees Celsius/ 66 degrees Fahrenheit, which you can anticipate at night, and a high of up to 33 degrees Celsius/ 91 degrees Fahrenheit. 

DON'T BOTHER FOLLOWING THE SIGNS
Even someone with the keenest sense of direction is guaranteed to get lost in the twisting, turning, unmarked streets of Marrakech. In the area around the Jemaa el-Fna, brightly coloured signs helpfully point the way to the main square…except…the signs are wrong! Instead of leading wanderers to the central point they are seeking, the markers lead in circles even further into the winding alleys of the souks. If you do get lost, it’s best to just ask for someone to point the way for you. 

DON'T ACCEPT DIRECTIONS FROM STRANGERS
Chances are, if you are walking around Marrakech, even if you don’t look lost someone will stop you and suggest that you follow them. Their destination could be an amazing Saharan Berber market, or a ‘festival of colour’ (the former leading you to the guide’s friend’s store, and the latter taking you to the pungent smelling leather tanneries). Everyone who’s been to Marrakech has a similar story of their own, each with one thing in common: an end result of confusion, obligation to pay someone for something you didn’t want, and time spent away from all the other amazing things to see and do in Marrakech. If you need directions, ask a policeman or someone working in a shop to point the way…but don’t let them lead you there!

BE ALERT
Not only are there cars to watch out for on the streets of Marrakech, but there are also bicycles, motorcycles, donkeys, horses, donkeys with trailers, horses with carriages, stray cats and plenty of other pedestrians to contend with. There are no footpaths, no lanes and very few traffic lights. Chaos is the only way this scene can be described; absolute chaos, so keep your wits about you as you’re walking around the streets.

CATCH CABS
If you’re not keen on walking on the hectic streets in the hot sun, grab a cab to your destination. The area inside the medina is quite small, so getting from the southernmost point to the northernmost shouldn’t take more than 15 minutes. Although travellers on a tight budget might choose to walk or take public transport, the cabs are very affordable, and a fare within the medina shouldn’t cost more than around 40 Dirhams, which is less than $11.00. Being a passenger of a taxi is an experience in itself, as the crazy traffic can be observed from a whole other perspective!

*One thing to remember: if taking a cab from the medina to the Beldi Country Club, make sure to ONLY take the Mercedes cabs, as others are considered unfit by police to travel on the main road. If not, an unfit cab will take you through back dirt roads to avoid getting a ticket.

HAGGLE
If you are catching taxis in Marrakech, make sure you haggle to get a reasonable price, and agree on the fare before you get in. If a taxi driver sees you are a tourist, they will try to charge you more than double what the fare really should be. Aim to spend 30-40 Dirhams to get anywhere within the medina; if the driver won’t budge on price just tell them you’ll find another cab and they will usually relent. The same goes for goods in the souks; bargaining is a part of the Moroccan culture, so don’t be shy about driving the price down, but do it with a smile and a sense of good fun, because that’s what it is!

BE MINDFUL WHEN TAKING PHOTOS
Two main points here, first, do not take photos of the locals without permission, second, do not take photos of monkeys/snake charmers in the main square. The first point is for cultural reasons, they believe that pictures capture their soul and so unless you have permission try to avoid taking pictures of local people in Marrakech.  Secondly, do not take photos of the monkeys on chains or the snakes being charmed in the main square unless you’re willing to pay a hefty sum for the privilege. On this note also be careful of taking obvious photos of the stores as they may try and make you pay or buy something for doing so.

FOOD AND WATER
It’s best to drink bottled water whilst you’re here to avoid any unwanted contamination. The food as long as it’s hot and freshly cooked is usually fine to eat anywhere. Definitely try and eat local cuisine as it’s always going to be better and is likely to be the most fresh items on the menu. Try the food at the night market and also at the cafes overlooking the main square, they’re all delicious and much cheaper than eating at the more upmarket restaurants that are predominantly located in the new town or at the luxury hotels. You must also try the mint tea here, it’s exquisite and deliciously sugary!

SPEND BEFORE YOU LEAVE
The Dirham is a closed currency, which means you can change your money for Dirhams when you arrive, but you won’t be able to change it back on your way out. Try to plan ahead by not taking too much cash out (but do keep in mind tip you may struggle to locate an ATM). Of course, if you do find yourself with a little extra money on your last day, head to the souks where the stall owners will gladly take it off your hands in exchange for leather goods, spices, rugs, tagines or hundreds of other beautiful and exotic items.

GET TO THE AIRPORT 2 HOURS BEFORE YOUR FLIGHT
Despite the hectic streets, people in Marrakech are extremely relaxed, and the pace off the roads is always unhurried. The airport is an especially good example of this, as each step of the process seems to take longer than the last: check-in, despite a relatively small line, takes longer than a hammam treatment, the gender-separated security line inches forward at a glacial pace, as does the immigration queue. Don’t be fooled by the fact that this is a small airport; allow plenty of time to get through to your departure gate.

shop

THE CARPET SOUK
One can marvel at the carpets on display here, from the more urban refined Arab rugs with intricate designs to the intriguing Berber carpets adorned with talismanic symbols and often tell a tribe’s story. Remember there is no “correct” price so it’s good to cut the asking price in half and try from there. Located in the medina.

THE SLIPPER SOUK
Perhaps the very prettiest souk in Marrakech, here you’ll find walls of traditional Moroccan leather slippers called babouches. There is incredible variety, from simple and streamlined to bedazzled, embroidered and jeweled.  The bright yellow ones are meant for men, and those slippers with a hard sole are meant to be worn outside. Located in the medina.

THE METALWORKING SOUK
While there are oodles of things made of metal to buy in this souk, Moroccan lanterns take center stage—from basic ones made from tin, to ornate beauties that take days to make. It’s fascinating to watch the craftsman in meticulous action before your very eyes. Located in the medina.

THE SPICE SOUK
The spice souk’s square is a sight in itself, with spices heaped into astonishing large cones making for a colorful display like no other. Here you can buy a wide variety of spices at affordable prices.  (Tip:  Moroccan saffron is expensive and should never be in powder form.  Don’t be fooled!)  Located in the medina.

HERBALISTS AT THE SPICE SOUK
Tucked into the back alleys of the spice souk, behind the tangle of zebra skins, dried iguanas and a live owl or two, are the herbalists. They will pluck a hair from your head and tuck it into a brass amulet that they fill with spices, minerals and other magical ingredients. Guaranteed (ahem) to provide protection under even the most dire circumstances. Located in the medina.

NORA AYRON
French/Algerian designer Nora Ayron creates her limited edition trademark kaftans in flamboyant prints and bold colors. Located inside the Le Jardin restaurant, it’s the perfect stop for women’s clothing and accessories that mix traditional Moroccan craftsmanship and Nora’s modern vision. 32, Souk El Jeld Sidi Abdelazizt, +212661295990, norya-ayron.com

RIAD YIMA
One of Marrakesh’s most famous artists, Hassan Hajjaj has turned his childhood home into a shop, tearoom and gallery for his work. There is nothing like it in the city. And the big secret is that apart from the very original designs, if you contact them in advance, they will make you the best couscous you will ever eat, though it’s only available on Fridays. 52 Derb Aarjane Rahba Lakdima Medina, riadyima.com

LALLA
After many years as a professional shopper, the French designer Laetitia Trouillet opened her boutique in Gueliz, which specializes in handbags made by local craftsmen. Lalla is proof that an original, unique design scene exists in Marrakesh. Boulevard el Mansour Eddahbi, lalla.fr

33 RUE MAJORELLE
Across the street from the Majorelle Gardens is a beautiful concept store, carrying merchandise from many of the city’s modern designers. It has a few books that are hard to find anywhere else, including city guide books, as well as Hassan Hajjaj’s book, considered by some to be the Andy Warhol of Morocco.  33 Rue Yves Saint Laurent, 33ruemajorelle.com

see

EL BADI PALACE
Stunning by day and breathtaking at night when it’s lit by candles, there is something quite special about this ancient royal palace. It’s nice to have a wander around the grounds and look at the storks who have made this their home. Ksibat Nhass, palais-el-badi.com

MEDERSA BEN YOUSSEF
This 16th-century Islamic school is a must-visit to appreciate the full measure of the intensity and skill of Moroccan architecture and craftsmanship. The school’s interiors are an example of the highest form of the region’s tile work, carved plaster and intricately carved wooden doors. Kaat Benahid, medersa-ben-youssef.com

MUSEE DE LA PALMERAIE
An outstanding private initiative of Abderrazzak Benchaâbane — a modern-day Renaissance man, who is an ethnobotanist, garden designer and perfumer. He presents his collection of Moroccan contemporary art — everything from sculpture and painting to photography and calligraphy — in a gallery surrounded by beautifully landscaped gardens. Dar Tounsi, Route de Fes, musee-palmeraie.com

JARDIN MAJORELLE
One of the most famous gardens in Africa, Jardin Majorelle is a twelve acre botanical garden that was bought by Yves Saint Laurent and Pierre Berge in 1980. Shops and cafes surround the garden, which is also home of the nation’s first Berber museum. Visited annually by more than 700,000 people, it is best advised to arrive early.  Rue Yves Saint Laurent, +212 5243-13047,  jardinmajorelle.com/ang/

LA PAUSE
La Pause is a no frills, back-to-nature-style eco-hotel built in an oasis within the Agafay desert, about 35 minutes southwest of the city. It’s appropriately named, since it’s a place to slow a racing mind and to reconnect with nature, and the sunsets here are intensely mesmerizing. It also has a small shop that stocks one of amazing olive oils. Douar Lmih Laroussiene, Commune Agafay, lapause-marrakech.com

eat

(MOROCCAN MENU)

LE TOBSIL
Le Tobsil is housed in a small but perfectly formed traditional riad and serves a set Moroccan menu. Intimate and memorable. Dinner only, closed Tuesday. Derb Abdellah Ben Hessein, +212 5244-44052

DAR YACOUT
Designed by Bill Willis – the American architect who helped put Marrakech on the style map – Dar Yacout serves a set menu amid dramatic décor. Dinner only. Closed Monday. 79 Sidi Ahmed Soussi, +212 5243-82929, daryacout.com

LE FOUNDOUK
Situated in one of the ancient houses where merchants used to stay on visits to Marrakech, Le Foundouk serves an a la carte Moroccan and international menu. Lunch and dinner. Closed Monday. 55, Souk Hal Fassi Kaat Bennahïd, +212 5243-78190, www.foundouk.com/?langue=en

MAISON ARABE
This hotel has a restaurant with an a la carte menu serving Moroccan and international dishes plus a cosy wood-panelled bar. Lunch and dinner. Open every day. Derb Assehbi, +212 5243-87010, lamaisonarabe.com

LA MAMOUNIA
The grande dame of Marrakech has Moroccan, French and Italian restaurants. Or visit the beautiful gardens and have tea on the terrace or lunch by the pool. Lunch and dinner. Open every day. Avenue Prince Moulay Rachid, +212 5243-88600, mamounia.com/en

LE COMPTOIR DARNA
The best-known nightspot in Marrakech, Comptoir is always buzzing so go for dinner and enjoy a belly dancing show followed by a DJ. Open every evening. Avenue Echouhada, +212 5244-37702, comptoirmarrakech.com

DJEMMA EL FNA
It’s not formal gastronomy but you can find some great local street food on the square as it comes alive at night. 

EAT

(INTERNATIONAL MENU)

LA FAMILLE
This is a small, family-run restaurant and local goods shop in the medina, set within a garden. The Mediterranean menu is strictly vegetarian and changes daily. Watching the family work in the kitchen looks a little like a scene out of an old Greek film. 42 Riad Zitoun Jdid, 212-6-69-04-11-37.

NOMAD
Nomad is one of the best places to dine in Marrakesh. From the terrace one can see the full hustle and bustle of the spice square below. Even the walk to and from the restaurant from any neighborhood in the medina is beautiful, especially in the evening. 1, Derb Aarjan, 212 5243-81609.

TERRASSES DES EPICES
This funky roof top café in the medina has a backdrop of the Atlas Mountains and good music. Simple Moroccan and international dishes make it popular for both lunch and dinner. Sidi Abdel Aziz، 15 souk cherifia, +212 5243-75904, terrassedesepices.com

LE JARDIN
Set in a gorgeously plant-filled riad with terraces for sun and small rooms with open fires for colder nights, Le Jardin serves simple Moroccan food plus salads, meats and pasta. You can also get a great glass of wine. Open every day. 32 Route Sidi Abdelaziz, +212 5243-78295, lejardinmarrakech.com

CAFE DES EPICES
Located on the spice square, this café is great for a quick salad or sandwich at lunchtime or a glass of mint tea on the small terrace. Open every day. Derb Rahba Lakdima, +212 5243-91770, cafedesepices.net

DEJEUNER DE MARRAKECH
Good for lunch and two minutes from Djemaa El Fna. Delicious salads, patisserie and a lovely terrace. Open every day. 4 Rue Douar Graoua, +212 5243-78387

CAFE CLOCK
This cafe is perfect stop if you want to see the beautiful Kasbah area. Serving a mix of Moroccan and European dishes, it’s always busy with locals and tourists thanks to traditional storytelling nights, yoga and Arabic classes. Derb Chtouka, +212 5243-78367, cafeclock.com

stay

We ask that all of our guests stay at the Beldi Country Club during the wedding festivities, which are the 22nd, 23rd, and 24th. If your visit to Marrakech is extended, consider staying at one of the hotels below:

EL FENN
There are many, many incredible palaces in Marrakesh that have been turned into guesthouses and hotels, and one of the best is El Fenn, Vanessa Branson’s beautiful renovation of a collection of old riads. Its restaurant is also excellent, and the terrace is a fantastic spot to hang out and have a drink. 2, Derb Moulay Abdullah Ben Hezzian, el-fenn.com

LA MAMOUNIA
One of Morocco’s most famous hotels, cherished especially for the just-dark-enough Churchill Bar (the cocktail den named after the property’s most famous regular). Avenue Prince Moulay Rachid; mamounia.com

DAR CHERIFA
This is a sublime old riad in the medina, both a restaurant and a gallery space that exhibits the work of local artists. Dar Cherifa bills itself a literary cafe, and has a library for guests to peruse while hanging out amid the riad’s meticulously restored tile and stucco work. 8, Derb Charfa Lakbir Mouassine, dar-cherifa.com

RIAD YASMINE
This Instagram-famous riad is located in the heart of the medina. With 7 rooms and suites and a notoriously friendly staff, this boutique hotel is an oasis in the medina. 209 Rue Ank Jemel, riad-yasmine.com/en

RIAD OLEMA & SPA
This is a magnificent riad, perfectly placed in the medina. The decoration and service are impeccable. Riad Olema contains a small guesthouse, hammam and restaurant, a 10-minute walk from Marrakesh’s main public square, Jemaa el-Fna. Once inside, you feel as if you’ve totally escaped the city. 32, Derb Sidi Ahmed ou Moussa Bab Doukkala,

explore

LALLA TAKERKOUST
A 40 minute drive from Marrakech, this lake is set against a backdrop of the Atlas Mountains. Go for lunch at Le Flouka restaurant or the Capaldi hotel. Or spend the day lounging by the pool at the chic Le Palais Paysan or at the Kasbah Beldi where you can picnic under olive trees before going for a swim or a quad bike ride.

SAHARA DESERT
You can either do a two-day trip to the dunes of Zagora or go deeper into the Sahara on a three-day excursion to Merzouga. After crossing the High Atlas Mountains, you’ll see date groves, gorges and mesmerising scenery on an epic scale. Either hire a driver and stop along the way at places including the UNESCO world heritage site Kasbah Ait Ben Haddou or take a bus straight to Zagora. On either excursion you’ll spent a night in a desert camp and wake to see the sun rising over the dunes. 

MERZOUGA LUXURY DESERT CAMPS
Located an hour and half drive from Erfoud. Enjoy your special night under the stars at this beautiful Oasis in a premium tented camp. Experience a camel ride at sunset and sunrise from the top of the dunes. Your desert experience includes an authentic Moroccan dinner under the stars and breakfast in the morning.
merzougaluxurydesertcamps.com/

AGAFAY HILLS
If you don’t have the time for a four-day trip into the Sahara then the Agafay hills are the closest thing you’ll get to a desert experience. A 45-minute drive from town, we recommend lunch in a Berber tent at La Pause. Or, you could spend a night in a tent at the vintage-themed Scarabeo Camp.

OURIKA VALLEY
Visit the buzzing local Berber market in Ourika village on a Monday morning or go to Aghmat village on a Friday. You can also visit the Nectarome gardens where the plants for our room products are grown or see the nearby saffron gardens before heading up to lunch at Bab Ourika which has a stunning view of the Atlas Mountains.

ATLAS MOUNTAINS
Richard Branson’s luxurious hotel Kasbah Tamadot is just an hour’s drive from Marrakech and overlooks the mountains. Or you can head higher up to visit the villages of Asni and Imlil (the markets are open on Saturday mornings or alternatively there is one in Tahanout on Tuesdays) before having lunch at the rustic Kasbah Toubkal.

FES
It’s a seven-hour car journey from Marrakech so not suitable for a day trip. But if you don’t make it to Fes on this trip then do go next time to this incredible city. Ancient, atmospheric and the artisanal heart of Morocco, it’s well worth a visit. We recommend staying at Riad 9 – a beautifully restored three-bedroom house in the heart of the medina that’s the sister property to the wonderful Restaurant 7.

ESSAOUIRA
You can go for a day by the beach or stay overnight in the city that clings to the Atlantic coast and is renowned for its azure blue paintwork. We recommend staying at either Villa de l’O or heading into the countryside to Les Jardins de Villa Maroc.

TANGIER
Take an overnight train and soak up the atmosphere in Morocco’s most vibrant coastal city. Writers and artists have long been drawn to Tangiers and it’s now undergoing a huge resurgence in popularity. Step back in time at the Hotel Minzah or head up into the hills to the stylish Villa Josephine.